Mmm, wrinkly beans soaked for months in a volatile fermented liquid, turning it a nice light brown color. That doesn’t strike your fancy? How about synthetic chemical compounds that are aromatic but also maybe containing a side of petroleum? Or, if you’re lucky, perhaps (although most likely not) with some naturally aromatic secretions from … beaver rear ends.
Nothing like kicking off a food column with some really appealing thoughts, the kind that really whet your appetite. You may have guessed by now that I was describing vanilla extract and imitation vanilla products — one of the most popular and ubiquitous flavors out there, yet one that we don’t put a lot of thought into. Vanilla is so normal that you can even use it as an adjective for ordinary; “having no special or extra features.”
Vanilla is so … vanilla.
On the other hand, how incredible is it that those long, slender bean pods are the fruit of gorgeous orchids? According to Cook’s Vanilla: “Vanilla beans are one of the world’s most difficult crops to cultivate. After harvest, the beans require an arduous and tricky nine-month process of sun drying to cure properly. Vanilla simply does not lend itself to mechanization or other methods of mass production.” This explains some of the price tag on authentic vanilla extract.
Vanilla is indigenous to Mexico, and only a few other not-far-from-the-Equator countries are able to successfully grow vanilla orchids. The vines can grow up to 50 feet long, and the orchids must be pollinated (typically by hand) within their 24-hour bloom or they die. Americans were introduced to vanilla by President Thomas Jefferson in 1789, and now we are the largest consumers of vanilla in the world.
Recipes and ingredient lists don’t often distinguish between “real” vanilla extract (from the bean) and “fake” vanilla flavoring (imitation); America’s Test Kitchen says the two are identical at the molecular levels and a tasting panel could not tell the difference when sampled in cookies and pudding. And while vanilla extract has a more complex flavor, imitation vanilla is actually stronger tasting — some products contain up to 15 times more vanillin (the appropriately-named flavor component in vanilla). Considering some vanilla extract brands can cost 50 times more than flavoring brands … it’s impossible to say that one is “better” than the other.
Interesting, one research study noted that all vanilla usage in the United States has skyrocketed since 2019 and pandemic-induced home baking. To be fair, it’s almost impossible to find a sweet recipe that doesn’t include vanilla; it’s as much a given as salt, if not more (although there should always be at least a pinch). In some ways, I feel it’s overused, and occasionally leave it out just to be a rebel. But that’s rare, because what really, what can a little bit hurt?
More often, as in every single time, I add more vanilla than called for. It’s been years since I’ve measured it — in my cooking classes, I typically narrate my ingredient additions and vanilla gets the classic “precisely one teaspoon” quip as I splash in an unidentified yet decisively generous amount. Seriously, one teaspoon is for wimps. If it’s going to be vanilla, make it vanilla. And not the boring kind.
Triple Vanilla Pudding
Again, vanilla doesn’t have to be so “vanilla.” It’s a lovely flavor, no matter which style you are using, so let’s just make sure we can taste it. I could easily make this at least a triple-triple vanilla with all the types, brands, and products I have — from homemade extract to different origins to vanilla bean sugar. I think it’s almost impossible to overdo it, although I might change my mind if I get too carried away here. We didn’t even have a chance to discuss Mexican vanilla or vanilla bean paste, but you’ll see them in my recipe since they round out the flavor and really make it bloom (like a vanilla orchid of course).
Prep tips: we add the vanilla after the cooking process since heat denatures some of the flavor compounds. Serve this as is, or borrow from vanilla ice cream’s ideal and garnish with all the toppings.
⅔ cup sugar
¼ cup flour
2 tablespoons cornstarch
½ teaspoon salt
4 cups whole milk
4 egg yolks, beaten
1 tablespoon butter
a splash of “regular” vanilla, imitation and/or extract
a splash of Mexican vanilla, imitation and/or extract
a smidge of vanilla bean paste
Mix sugar, flour, cornstarch, and salt in a medium saucepan. Gradually whisk in milk, then bring to a simmer over low heat, whisking often; cook a few minutes until nicely thickened. Carefully whisk in a ladle of the hot pudding to the beaten eggs, then transfer back to the saucepan, whisking constantly. Cook for another minute, then remove from heat and stir in butter and vanillas. Cool completely.
Amanda Miller lives with her husband, two young children, and whoever else God brings them through foster care on the family dairy farm in Hutchinson. She enjoys doing some catering, teaching cooking classes, and freelancing, but mostly chasing after her kids. Reach her at hyperpeanutbutter@gmail.com.
